Sewing-machine



(No Model.) 2 Sheets-Sheet 1.

l H. GHARMBURY.

h SEWING MAGHINE. No. 276,560. 7 Patented May 1,1883.

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UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

HENRY CHARMBURY, on ivEWARK, NEW JERSEY.

SEWING-,MACHINE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 276,560, dated May 1,1883.

Application filed December 30, 18 82. (No model.)

To all whom it may concern:

Beit known that I, HENRY O ARMB RY, a citizen of Great Britain, residingat Newark,

in the county of Essex and State. of New'Jersey, have invented certainnew and useful Improvements in Sewing-Machines; and I do hereby declarethe following to be a full, clear,

and exact description of the invention, such as will enable othersskilled in the art to which it appertains to'make and use the same,reference being had to the accompanying drawings,

and to letters of reference marked thereon, which form a part of thisspecification.

The more especial object of this invention is to reduce the cost ofconstructing, to Silli'.

plify,and otherwise improve machines for stitching sweat-bands for bats,imitating the peculiar style of hand-stitching now in vogue, wherebythe. cost of said bands are materially reduced, and the stitching moreuniform and perfect. 1

A further object is to adapt the machine to produce, first, ordinarystraight sewing, 'Figure 5, I; second, a stitch known as a zigzagstitch, Fig. 5, II; and, third, an imitation of hand-whipping, Fig. 5,III, all of which stitches have been employed on hats,

and can be produced by my device by manipulating the parts, as will behereinafter set forth.

The invention. consists, first, in a machine capable of and constructedto produce either and all of the'above-mentioned stitches; second,asingle-needle machine, constructed and adapted to imitate what istechnically denominat'ed hand-whipping; third, in a hook arran gedinconnection with the needle, above the bed-plate, having a compoundmotion or a combination of motions, whereby the needle-thread is caughtwhen the needle-point is out of and above the face of the leather orgoods, holds the same while the needle passes sidewise a certaindistance, descends through the goods, rises, makes a return motion, anddescends through the loop held by the book, after which action of theneedle the hook releases the thread and then passes to a positionpreliminary to catching the thread for a second stitch.

tially as will be hereinafter set forth, and finally embodied in theclaims.

Referring to the accompanying drawings,

'in which similar letters of reference indicate like parts in each ofthe several figures, Fig.

1 is an elevation of a sewingmachine em-' bodying my improvements. Fig.2 is a plan of the bed-plateand attachments. Figs. 3and 4 aremodifications, illustrating a method of actuating the book by powerreceived fromthe needle bar. Fig. 5 illustrates certain stitches mydevice is capable of forming; and Fig. 6 is an enlarged view,illustrating the construction of a certainpeculiar stitch imitating in adegree What is known as hand whipping.

In carrying out my invention I prefer to construct the machinesubstantially as shown in Figs. 1 and 2, wherein A is the bed-plate: B,

the overhanging arm, carrying the vertical between thecarn and theneedle, a slot, it, al-

lowing said sliding motion. The cam 0 causes the lever to movelongitudinally, while the cam 01 gives a vibratory motion when inconnection with a spring, k, which latter furnishes reactive power. Saidspring is secured to the lever atj, while the free end bears against thelugor post 43. Upon the end of the lever, lying in close proximity tothe needle, is secured adjustably a hook, it, which, when actuated bythe lever; graspsthe needle-thread, while the feed carries. the materialforward, and the needle descends through said material, forms a loopthrough which the shuttle passes, then. rises again, the feed acts, andthe needle descends through the loop formed by the said hook.

Under certain hereinafter-specified circumstances it becomes necessaryto throw the lever f,or the hook adjusted thereon, from a position ofengagement with the ncedlethread.

To effect this, a shifting device, Z, is provided, a

by means-of which the lever is rendered ineffective in producingany'useful result. Said shifting device is preferably constructed with atongue, which, extending under the leverf, engages with a shoulder. onsaid lever, throwing the latter out from a position of engagement withthe needle-thread, as shown in dotted outline.

I prefer to construct in y device in connection with a machine formaking what is technically known as a zigzag" stitch,illustrated in Fig.5, II. Indeed, the device above described is only operative with such amachine. fore describe herein the main features of said zigzag machine,as far as they relate to the present improvements, a more fulldescription being given in United States Letters Patent No. 255,143,granted to me on the 21st day of March, 1882; but I do not wish to beunderstood as limiting myself to a connection with said machine. 1

The above particularly-mentioned zigzagstitch machine has therein aswitch-cam, m, secured to the horizontal shaft D, which actuates thelever'n, fulcrumed at r to a reciprocating motion, which is in turntransmitted through the pitman-rod 0 and sliding guide 1) to theswinging needle-bar q, all as will be understood. By raising the stud s,which holds the pitman and lever into operative combination, to a pointin line with the fulcrum a,

it will be evident that any reciprocating motion will be stopped, andthe needle-bar Q will have a simple-vertical movement, producing theordinary straight stitching illustrated in Fig. 5, I.

To produce a sweat leather or band having the imitation hand-whippingstitch the operation is as follows, referring more especially to Figs. 2and 6,in the latter of which 2 indicates the sweatleather, 3 thereed-covering, and 4 the reed. The needle perforates the leather at aand forms a loop beneath the leather, through which the shuttle passes,-the shuttlethread passing through said loop, being illustrated at I).The needle then rises, and the hook t, actuated to a forward and lateralmotion by the cams, catches the thread, while the feed carries theleather forward, and the needle, influenced by thezigzag-stitch-producing mechanism, descends at 0 while the hook stillholds the thread. The needle passes downward and presents the loop d tothe shuttle, then rises again, while the feed and .zigzag mechanismcauses it to descend at 6 through the loop held by the hook, which thenreleases the thread, preparatory to taking a new hold and a repetitionof the whole process.

In Figs. 3 and 4 is illustrated a modification of my device as far as itrelates to the hook actuating mechanism. In said figures, q is thevibrating needle-bar, adapted to form the zigzag stitch,said needle-barhaving a pin, screw,

or projection, 1", adapted to enter the-slot of-- the cam-plate t, Fig.4, at each alternate descent of the needle. The lower end of cam t-' I'is secured to spindle a, Fig. 3, which rocks and I there slides inguides, one of which is mounted on the presser-foot and the other isshown at w, Fig.3, and is secured to the presser-bar. The upper end ofcam-plate it rests on a wedge-piece, u, secured to the lower edge of thehead of the machine. A smallhook, t,is secured to thespindle v in aposition near the needle, and a spiral spring, mounted between guide 10and camplate 16, secures contact with the wedge-piece u.

' When the projection r enters the cam-slot at one of the'vibrations ofneedle-bar it descends until it comes into contact with the roundedshoulder 5 when the cam is pushed to one side, Fig. 4, at the same timeits upper end slips off the wedge-piece to, allowing the spiral springto move'the spindle endwise, Fig. 3. This motion releases the loop heldby the hook t. After the needle has completed its descent it rises untilits point is clear of the goods, when the pin 1", striking the oppositeshoulder, s, forces the cam-plate back toits original posi tion, thehook 25 passing partially under the needle and carrying theneedle-thread with it. The needle-vibrating mechanism now carries thepin r out of contact with the. cam t, which remains at rest, while theneedle'descends again through the goods, rises and vibrates back, andagain engages with the. cam t, when the point of the needle descendsthrough the loop held by the hook, and thepin again strikes the shoulder8 releasing the loop, 850. The action of the hook on the threadissubstantially the same in this case as in the one before mentioned.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new, and Wish tosecure by Letters Patent, is-- v 1. In combination, in a sewing-machine,a shuttle, a vibrating needle, athread-detaining mechanism adapted tocatch the thread of the vibrating needle and hold the same to form aloop, and a device adapted to throw said detaining mechanism into andfrom operative engagement with said needle, substantially as herein setforth and shown.

2. The combination, with mechanism adapted to vibrate the needle, ofmechanism adapted to hold the needle-thread to allow a loop to heformed, the holding mechanism hein g adapted and arranged to allow thegoods operated upon to pass between the same and bed-plate,substantially as herein set forth and shown.

3. The combination, with a sewing-machine provided with a shuttle havinga vibrating needle, of a thread-catching device arranged above thebed-plate to allow the material to be drawn between said catching deviceand said bed-plate, all substantially as and for the purposes herein setforth and shown.

4. The combination, in a sewing-machine, of a vibrating needle, a hook,and a shuttle, all arranged and operating in conjunction.

5. In a sewing-machine, the combination, with-the shuttleand vibratingneedle, of a hook actuated by the lever f, fulcrumed upon the shaft 0,cams c (1, receiving power from said shaft, the slotted lever f, workingon the fulcrum g, and the adjustable hook t, all arranged and operatingsubstantially as herein set forth and shown.

In testimony that I claim the foregoing I have hereunto set my hand this27th day of November, 1882.

HENRY CHARMBURY.

Witnesses CHARLES H. PELL, OLIVER DRAKE.

